Bar Harbor, ME - Saturday, August 26

The bike riding has come to an end. I am posting this from the Bar Harbor Library. I expect to make one or two more posts after I get home next week.

East Orland, ME - Thursday, August 24
Bill (Linda's boyfriend) arrived yesterday, and he hauled all of our group gear and some of our personal gear today. What a pleasure to ride without a cooking pot, stove, bunch of condiments and spices, my tent, sleeping bag, and sleeping pad. The weather has been fine, but chilly at night with lows in the 40's.

Andy & I cooked and invented a new 'one-pot-glop'. Most of our meals are one-pot-glops of one fashion or another. It was a traditional stir fry, but since we only had about half as much sweet-sour sauce as needed, we added a can of beef gravy. Mmmmm - not bad after we added a bunch of other spices. We served it over rice.

Cal had another flat. Yuk.

I got bad news from Karen. My sister Patty, who lives in Indianapolis, IN passed away unexpectedly. God rest her soul.

Bar Harbor, ME - Friday, August 25
Bill carried gear for us today, but he has no group gear to haul. As we broke camp in the morning, we made two piles of group gear: things that Andy is sending back to Adventure Cycling headquarters, and things that were being thrown away. He stopped along the route today, and sent it back UPS.

Cal had to switch tires this morning before he left camp. He had a defective Specialized Armadillo (which only had about 1,000 miles on it), and he had to replace it with a temporary spare - a folding tire. After about 10 miles, the folding tire blew a sidewall, and he had no choice other than to push the bike to a place where he could buy a new one, or stick out his thumb. Wisely, he used his thumb and was picked up within 10 minutes. The driver hauled him and his bike all the way to the hostel in Bar Harbor - some 20 miles or so.

The ride was short but hilly. We bordered on Arcadia National Park, but never entered it. Bar Harbor is a really neat tourist town, and the locals tell us the tourist season is winding down quickly. Cal and I arrived at the hostel in time to dry out our tents in the sun. With all our gear laying on the front lawn of the hostel, a local pulled up thinking we were having a yard sale. It took us a while to figure out why he was asking such strange questions about our gear.

I started breaking down my bike for shipment back: I wanted to get the chain off and get the right crank arm loose before Andy departed Saturday morning, since he had a more complete toolkit than I. My tools proved adequate to the task.

The hostel has a room with 5 sets of bunk beds. It is apparently one of the nicer hostels in the US. It was clean, comfortable, and there were a lot of nice people there, but it is not the kind of accommodations I would pick for myself.

Friday night, we had a good meal with 'Steamers' as an appetizer. I had never had them before. They are a form of clams steamed in the shell, and eaten after being dipped in butter. This morning I said my goodbyes to Cal and Andy. That was kind of tough. Anne and Hans are staying at the same hotel I am staying at until Monday.

Karen was able to change my Monday flight: I am now flying to Indianapolis, rather than South Bend.

Camden, ME - Wednesday, August 23

Conway, NH - Saturday, August 18
On our route to Conway, we went through Lincoln, which was a very neat New England tourist town. In addition to the natural beauty, white water sports and skiing are the draw.

We had our last big climb of the trip today, about 1,800 feet. It was not a particularly hard climb though, because it was not especially steep. We said goodbye to the White Mountains.

In Conway, traffic was backed up for a mile or so: we sailed right through on our bikes.

In the campground, we camped on dirt and sand. It sprinkled a bit at supper time, then rained hard all night; we broke camp in the rain and had breakfast at a restaurant.

Turner, ME - Sunday, August 19
It continued raining all day, and the temperature dropped from 68 degrees to 59; had it gotten much colder, some of us would have been in trouble. Andy worked his cell phone and pay phones throughout the day to find us a warm dry place to stay. He managed to get us a hostel: a new experience for me.

The hostel was a family-run old working farm where they raised organic foods, goat milk, and llamas. They also made their own goat cheese, jams and jellies, bread, etc., which they served in a store/restaurant. Everyone was friendly, and the kids were especially outgoing. They introduced themselves, and I told them my name was Paul, but they could call me Grandpa. One of them, 7 year old Mackinsey was especially friendly, and wanted 'Grandpa' to tell her a bedtime story. She saw through my two versions of Little Red Riding Hood, and I had to give up. The guys slept in one spare bedroom with 4 beds and the gals slept in a living room. The guys flipped coins (odd-man-out) to see who got the smallest bed. Hans lost. Lodging and supper cost $25 each, and we bought our own breakfast the next morning. It continued raining all night, and was still raining when we got up.

Damariscotta, ME - Monday, August 20
We started riding in a light rain, but it stopped in the mid morning. All our gear was still wet from the rain of the past two days. We had some sun in the afternoon: Andy, Hans and Ann stopped and dried out their tents about half way through the ride. Cal and I dried out our tents in Damariscotta, and used the laundromat to wash or dry out some clothing. I started drying my tent in a restaurant parking lot, and was politely asked to leave. I moved to a bank lot that had lots of empty spaces. We had supper in a nice restaurant again. Since we will be finishing the trip two days early, we have some extra money which we are spending on restaurants. Anne and I had Maine lobster!


Camden, ME - Tuesday & Wednesday, August 21 & 22
WE MEET THE ATLANTIC OCEAN! Coast-to-coast is complete! What a great feeling to see the ocean.

We met at a small marina in Rockport, where we did the traditional 'wheel dip', by dipping our front wheels in salt water. We were all congratulating each other and exchanging High Fives. A local, observing our celebrations invited us to be his guests for supper and a nights rest. After deliberation, we declined. As we were taking pictures of our wheel dip, others were taking photos of us, as the word quickly spread around the marina.

Today's ride was short, only 33 miles, and we had a light tail wind. All three remaining days will be short, as we wind down. We are camped at a nice campground at a state park on the ocean. We had supper at Bippies, a roadside stand, where we all had seafood: Anne & I had lobster again. After supper, some of us rode into town and picked up beer and Jim Beam. We had quite a salt-water celebration that night. During the celebration, Andy and I called our wives, where we had a round robin conversation with them. Cell phone coverage was not good, and my call to Karen got dropped while Hans was talking to her. I could not get service again, so she kind of got left out in right field.

On the layover day Cal and I went for an ocean sail on a two masted schooner. Very nice. I got to catch up on this blog, and we had supper again at Bippies.

North Woodstock, VT - Thursday, August 17

Middlebury, VT - Monday, August 14

We camped at a pretty nice campground, but the manager was a pain in the you-know-what. As is the norm, Andy was the last person to arrive at camp. Normally we just explain to the office that Andy (the money man) will arrive later, and ask the office where we should pitch our tents. The office manager would have no part of this. He would not let us on the property until we had registered and paid. He claimed that it was due to insurance regulations. After I negotiated with him for a few minutes, he agreed to let me register in my name, and let him run my credit card through the machine. He would not actually charge my card, but would keep the paperwork and charge it if Andy did not show up. Okay. When Andy showed up a while later, the manager was good to his word. There was a nice covered pavilion right next to our campsite. The manager would not let us use it because of insurance regulations since we had not paid extra for it. Jeeze. It rained at night, but stopped before we got up.

Middlebury is a very nice New England town and is the home of Middlebury College.

Today's ride was a departure from the state forest roads we have been using the last couple of days in New York. I saw a McDonald's for the first time since we left Niagara Falls...of course I had to stop. We passed by Fort Ticonderoga, and I stopped in to sight see a bit. The border between New York and Vermont is Lake Champlain. We took a cable ferry across the lake. Cal had a flat today - a big piece of glass.

Most of us are still making travel arrangements for returning home. I had a chance to stop at a library and print out my Delta confirmation paperwork. Cal's wife is driving in on Saturday to meet him. I'm looking forward to meeting her. Andy is catching an early plane home on Saturday. Hans and I are catching planes home on Monday. Ann is riding her bike from Bar Harbor toward her parent's home in New Jersey. I'm not sure if she is riding all the way, or if she will ride to an Amtrak station.

Gaysville, VT - Tuesday, August 15
We are finding that Vermont has virtually no shoulders on their roads. We rode through the Green Mountain National Forrest much of the day. I had to walk two short stretches of very steep hill. We are seeing more of the classic New England architecture. I stopped at an old inn and had a smoked salmon sandwich on rye. There was a lot of confusion at the campsite again. We had been assigned two campsites in the woods with no grass. We tried to get the office to switch us to sites with grass. No deal. After Cal negotiated with the office, the manager switched us to a single site with grass. I could understand the problem if we had RV's.

Andy had a big day. He got a new bottom bracket bearing and got the bearings on both wheels lubed. He also found out for sure that he will be leading the "Southern Tier Plus Expedition" this fall.

Orford, NH - Wednesday, August 16
We had a nice short day and stayed at a nice campground. I got into camp by 3:30 pm. The hills continue to be steep but short. I have found that a tail wind is not important in these mountains.

North Woodstock, NH - Thursday August 17
Today we had perfect weather, with a high of about 82 degrees. We rode through the White Mountains National Forest, where there was one long steep climb. I had to stop 3 times to catch my breath, but I did not need to walk. At the top of the climb was the Appalachian Trail. As you might guess, the downhill was equally steep and long. I hit 52.4 mph on the descent...the fastest I have ever gone on a bike I think.

The campground is ok. The best thing about it is that we have a shelter where we can get out of the sun and rain if we want. The most unusual thing about it is that the showers are outdoors; that is to say, there is no roof on the shower building.

For supper, we ate out at a nice restaurant.

Blue Ridge, NY - Sunday, August 13

I see Karen has posted my latest batch of pictures, and created a link to them.


Texas, NY - Thursday, August 10
The terrain is getting hilly; not big hills, but it is beginning to look like Southern Indiana.

Andy almost had a disaster. He left his wallet at a fruit stand where he was taking a break. He noticed it when we stopped at a Dairy Queen a little later. He got a ride back to the stand where they had his wallet, then the stand owner drove him back to the Dairy Queen where he continued on his way. This was an example of how friendly locals are - they are always friendly and happy to help. But this assistance stands out because it was well over and above what others have done for us.

We had a storm in the afternoon. I missed most of it, but everyone else was hit hard. Fortunately, it did not last long. We camped at a very nice campground on Lake Ontario: for free! The manager, Bob, said they have not charged bicyclist for years. We sent him an Adventure Cycling thank you card.

Boonville, NY - Friday, August 11

We're in the hills! On the edge of the Adirondacks. Short but steep ups and downs. We are also seeing some logging, which we have not seen since Minnesota/Wisconsin.

The weather has turned cool - I think the today high was 72 degrees. I wore a long sleeve jersey all day.

I lost a $5.00 bet to Anne. I'm embarrassed to say what the bet was, but now I've got to figure out some way to win it back. That will be tough - she's a pretty clever cookie.

Raquette Lake, NY - Saturday, August 12

I guess we can tell we are getting weary. Two days ago, Andy lost a wallet, yesterday I lost a bet, and today, Cal lost his map. When we get to Vermont, he will start using a new map, but until then he will be blind. I came to his rescue: since I am using a GPS, I can get by without a map, so I loaned him mine.

It was 41 degrees this morning, and we rode with a crossing headwind all day. We are definitely in the mountains...the ups and downs are getting longer. This was my hardest day since we left the Cascades. I had to walk one hill near the end of the day. It was a long steep climb, and I was so tired that I couldn't keep my bike in a straight line at 3.3 mph, so I got off and pushed.

The campground was in a very nice setting, but was quite run-down. Cal & I had cold showers, but Hans was able to figure out how to get hot water. We are still seeing some logging.

Blue Ridge, NY - Sunday, August 13

We are in the heart of the Adirondacks. We are constantly climbing or coasting, with no flats. The longest grades are about 3 miles, but most of them are 1/2 mile or less.

It was 36 degrees this morning: the locals tell us this is unusual. Today was a short day, only 42 miles, and we enjoyed a sunny tail wind. The route was nearly all in state forest land. We are seeing a lot of Maple trees, but there are still a lot of White Pine too.

The campground was nice, and we had a great spot overlooking a big waterfall area. We all had time to do some laundry. Unfortunately, on Monday morning the water was down to a trickle and the main toilets were not working...an unfortunate end to an otherwise pleasant stay.

Karen has finalized my flight back home.
. Friday 8/25 we ride into Bar Harbor and spend the night in a Hostel
. Saturday 8/26 I (and Hans, Anne, and Cal I think) move into motels. I pack up my bike and arrange for UPS shipment home.
. Sunday 8/27 I sight see Bar Harbor.
. Monday 8/28 I take a shuttle to Bangor, and Fly Delta (via Boston and Cincinnati)home.

Pultneyville, NY - Wednesday, August 9

Bad news. I lost my little notebook where I have been keeping my diary. I left it in a restaurant in Ontario, but I don't remember the name of the restaurant, so I can't get it back. I bought a new notebook in Fort Erie, so I'll pick up from there.

Some of the things that stand out in my mind:
. After taking a ferry from Michigan to Ontario, we hugged Lake Erie all the way to Niagara Falls.
. The windmills (hundreds of them in east central Ontario).
. Hugh power plant in eastern Ontario.
. Lots of tobacco being grown in central Ontario, and lots of tobacco kilns for drying it. Not like in the US.
. We had supper in the rain - our most difficult meal of the trip.
. It had been hot for a couple of weeks, and we really enjoyed the cool breeze off of Lake Erie
. We spent one night in a motel, because there were no campgrounds around.


Fort Erie, ON - Saturday, August 5
Camped at a nice KOA. I received a 'gift' of a big white rabbit/teddy bear named fluffy. We seem to have started a game of trying to give fluffy to someone who is not looking: the person holding it has to haul it to the next campsite.

We followed a bike/ped trail for many miles today.

Niagara Falls, ON - Sunday and Monday, August 6 & 7
Camped at a noisy campground, after riding only about 15 miles from our last campground. We had thought we were going to be in the US today, and were surprised that the campground was actually in Canada. It is a national holiday in Canada, and the campground is crowded.

We had lots of time for sight seeing, so we found a good Indian restaurant and ate lunch there both days. We also took a tour in the Maid Of The Mist: these are the boats that take people right up to the base of the falls. I was surprised at how windy and choppy the water was. I would recommend this tour to any one visiting Niagara Falls.

Now that we are about 2/3 finished with the trip, we have new cooking partners. Andy & I, Cal & Hans, and Linda & Anne.

Holly, NY - Tuesday, August 8
Back in the US today; 71 miles. It was a really pretty ride up the Niagara Parkway to the bridge into New York. We rode nearly all the way on the Erie Canal towpath. The towpath is a screened limestone path, of course with no traffic.

On the way here, I stopped at a library and was able to find specifics on shuttles from Bar Harbor to Bangor, and flights from Bangor to South Bend. We are 99.44% certain that we will be arriving at Bar Harbor one day early.

It got very cool in the evening, and I put a long sleeved shirt on for the first time in weeks. Beautiful weather! Full moon that rose just as we were finishing supper. We can tell the days are getting shorter, as we are usually finishing up supper just before dark.

The campground is at a marina of sorts. There is a place for pleasure boats to dock as people go up and down the canal. Very nice facilities for camping.

Pultneyville, NY - Wednesday, August 9

We camped at Hughes Marina & Campground: this was the worst evening of our trip. Hughes was a run down marina/campground on Lake Ontario. We camped in goose poop. The water faucet was far away, we had no picnic table, we washed dishes and I pitched my tent in the dark (on goose you-know-what). Oh well - that's the adventure in Adventure Cycling.

Other than the camping, it was a glorious day.